Your $1 has absolutely changed in value by 10pm. What do you think inflation is? It might not be enough change for the store to bother changing prices but the value changes constantly.

Watch the foreign exchange markets, your $1 is changing in value compared to every other currency constantly.

The only difference between fiat and crypto is that changing the prices in the store is difficult, and the volume of trade is high enough to reduce volatility in the value of your $. There are plenty of cases of hyperinflation in history where stores have to change prices on a daily basis, meaning that fiat is not immune to volatility.

To prevent that volatility we just have things like the federal reserve, debt limits, federal regulations, etc that are designed to keep you the investor (money holders) happy with keeping that money in dollars instead of assets. The value is somewhat stable as long as the government is solvent.

Crypto doesn’t have those external controls, instead it has internal controls, i.e. mining difficulty. Which from a user perspective is better because it can’t be printed at will by the government.

Long story short fiat is no different than crypto, there is no real tangible value, so value is what people think it is. Unfortunately crypto’s value is driven more by speculative “investors” than by actual trade demand which means it is more volatile. If enough of the world changed to crypto it would just as stable as your $.

Not saying crypto is a good thing just saying that it isn’t any better or worse. It needs daily usage for real trade by a large portion of the population to reduce the volatility, instead of just being used to gamble against the dollar.

Our governments would likely never let that happen though, they can’t give up their ability to print money. It’s far easier to keep getting elected when you print the cash to operate the government, than it is to raise taxes to pay for the things they need.

The absolutely worthless meme coin scams/forks/etc are just scammers and gamblers trying to rip each other off. They just make any sort of useful critical mass of trade less and less plausible because it gives all crypto a bad name. Not that Bitcoin/Ethereum started out any different but now that enough people are using them splitting your user base is just self defeating

They are from the Lemmynsfw instance. Probably automatically applied to any post coming from that instance.

I am assuming this is the LVM volume that Ubuntu creates if you selected the LVM option when installing.

Think of LVM like a more simple more flexible version of RAID0. It isn’t there to offer redundancy but it take make multiple disks aggregate their storage/performance into a single block device. It doesn’t have all of the performance benefits of RAID0, particularly with sequential reads, but in the cases of fileservers with multiple active users it can probably perform even better than a RAID0 volume would.

The first thing to do would be to look at what volume groups you have. A volume group is one or more drives that creates a pool of storage that we can allocate space from to create logical volumes. Run vgdisplay and you will get a summary of all of the volume groups. If you see a lot of storage available in the ‘Free PE/Size’ (PE means physical extents) line that means that you have storage in the pool that hasn’t been allocated to a logical volume yet.

If you have a set of OS disks an a separate set of storage disks it is probably a good idea to create a separate volume group for your storage disks instead of combining them with the OS disks. This keeps the OS and your storage separate so that it is easier to do things like rebuilding the OS, or migrating to new hardware. If you have enough storage to keep your data volumes separate you should consider ZFS or btrfs for those volumes instead of LVM. ZFS/btrfs have a lot of extra features that can protect your data.

If you don’t have free space then you might be missing additional drives that you want to have added to the pool. You can list all of the physical volume which have been formatted to be used with LVM by running the pvs command. The pvs command show you each formatted drive and if they are associated with a volume group. If you have additional drives that you want to add to your volume group you can run pvcreate /dev/yourvolume to format them.

Once the new drives have been formatted they need to be added to the volume group. Run vgextend volumegroupname /dev/yourvolume to add the new physical device to your volume group. You should re-run vgdisplay afterwards and verify the new physical extents have been added.

If you are looking to have redundancy in this storage you would usually build an mdam array and then do the pvcreate on the volume created my mdadm. LVM is usually not used to give you redundancy, other tools are better for that. Typically LVM is used for pooling storage, snapshots, multiple volumes from a large device, etc.

So one way or another your additional space should be in the volume group now, however that doesn’t make it usable by the OS yet. On top of the volume group we create logical volumes. These are virtual block devices made up of physical extents on the physical disks. If you run lvdisplay you will see a list of logical volumes that were created by the Ubuntu installer which is probably only one by default.

You can create new logical volumes with the lvcreate command or extend the volume that is already there. Or resize the volume that you already have with lvresize. I see other posts already explained those commands in more detail.

Once you have extended the logical volume (the virtual block device) you have to extend the filesystem on top of it. That procedure depends on what filesystem you are using on your logical volume. Likely resize2fs for ext4 by default in Ubuntu, or xfs_growfs if you are on XFS.

FYI the latest SteamOS release (just a couple of days ago) added an option to only charge to 80%.

Cisco c3850-12x48u is about $150 on eBay.

• 802.3bt (60watt) PoE on all ports
• 36x 1gig rj45 ports
• 12x 1/2.5/5/10gig rj45 ports
• Has a module slot that you can add 4x or 8x (8x is rare so expensive) 10gig sfp+

The main problem is the idle power consumption. About 150w with nothing plugged in.

The point is that you can still treat it like a physical game. So there are upsides in that you can borrow it to your friends or resell it.

If it is a game that gets updated often or requires updates to even play it (multiplayer games) then having the game data on the card is next to worthless anyways and just makes publishing the game more difficult because they can’t start manufacturing the cards until the game is 100% ready.

Nintendo’s audience goes for physical much more than the other consoles, much easier swapping cards than dealing with family sharing, a lot of their adult users collect games, and generally Nintendo games hold their value much more so being able to resell is important. So this is a compromise between what their users want and what they need for modern game development.

Slippery slope for sure if they start doing the same with single player games but there are valid reasons for them to do this, and the alternative is they just start forcing everyone to download all of their games which is even worse. MIG switch would never have been an issue for them if there just weren’t game card slots to begin with.

Of course end users should assume the store is going to get shutdown someday and their games will be inaccessible at that time. Nintendo needs to shutdown those stores so that a couple of generations later they can sell everyone the same games for the second/third/fourth time.

Sales taxes are state/city level taxes, there are no federal sales taxes (yet). But he is essentially using the tariffs as a way to enact sales taxes without really adding a sales tax.

With the tariffs he can add a massive tax on the people which Republicans would normally be very much against, but he can say it is about being pro American and most of them forget about all of the extra money they will be paying.

This shifts the tax burden further onto middle/lower income homes and lets him give more income tax cuts to higher earners without increasing the deficit so much that congress would turn on him.

The Republicans have actually been talking about this for a long time they called it the “fair tax”. Their fair tax plan was basically a flat ~23% federal sales tax that would replace income tax, but they could never get their base behind it.

Someone on Trump’s team realized that we buy so much from other countries that he could accomplish the same thing the fair tax aimed to do via tariffs while selling them to his party as “buy American”. His lower/middle income base eats that up, and his campaign donors see it as killing their overseas competition.

If it weren’t for the other countries reciprocating it would have been a good plan for them.

I’ve got about 30 zwave devices, and at first the idea of the 900mhz mesh network sounded like a really solid solution. After running them for a few years now if I were doing it again I would go with wifi devices instead.

I can see some advantages to the mesh in a house lacking wifi coverage. However I would guess most people implementing zigbee/zwave probably have a pretty robust wifi setup. But if your phone doesn’t have great signal across the entire house a lightswitch inside of a metal box in the wall is going to be worse.

Zwave is rather slow because it is designed for reliability not speed. Not that it needs to be fast but when rebooting the controller it can take a while for all of the devices to be discovered, and if a device goes missing things break down quickly, and the entire network becomes unresponsive even if there is another path in the mesh. Nothing worse than hitting one of your automations and everything hangs leaving you in the dark because one outlet three rooms over is acting up.

It does have some advantages, like devices can be tied to each other (i.e. a switch tied to a light) and they will work even without your hub being up and running (zwave controller I think can even be down).

Zwave/Zigbee also guarantee some level of compatibility/standardization. A lightswitch is a lightswitch it doesn’t matter which brand you get.

On the security front Zwave has encryption options but it slows down the network considerably. Instead of just sending out a message into the network it has to negotiate the encrypted connection each time it wants to send a message with a couple of back and forth packets. You can turn it on per device and because of the drawbacks the recommendation tends to be, to only encrypt important things like locks and door controls which isn’t great for security.

For Zwave 900mhz is an advantage (sometimes). 900mhz can be pretty busy in densely populated areas, but so can 2.4 for zigbee/wifi. If you have an older house with metal boxes for switches/plaster walls the mesh and the 900mhz penetration range may be an advantage.

In reality though I couldn’t bridge reliably to my garage about thirty feet away, and doing so made me hit the Zwaves four hop limit so I couldn’t use that bridge to connect any additional devices further out. With wifi devices connecting back to the house with a wifi bridge, a buried Ethernet cable, etc can extend the network much more reliably. I haven’t tried any of the latest gens of Zwave devices which are supposed to have higher range.

The main problem with wifi devices is that they are often tied to the cloud, but a good number of them can be controlled over just your LAN though. Each brand tends to have their own APIs/protocols though so you need to verify compatibility with your smart hub before investing.

So if you go the wifi route make sure your devices are compatible and specifically check that your devices can be controlled without a cloud connection. Especially good to look for devices like Shelly that allow flashing of your own firmware or have standardized connection methods in their own firmware (Shelly supports MQTT out of the box)

I assume you are powering the dock? Many docks require external power before they will pass video.

Does the screen on the deck shut off or stay active?

If the screen stays active that means that it isn’t detecting an HDMI signal through the dock at all.

If the screen shuts off but you get no video through the receiver, you should try hitting the power button one to shut it off wait a few seconds then turn it back on (while plugged in). Even the official dock has issues getting the deck to switch to the external output but putting the deck to sleep and back on gets it sorted out.

If that still doesn’t do it plug in directly to your TV to narrow down the problem (removes the receiver as a variable). Next try a different HDMI cable, and as a last resort try a different dock. If you know someone else with their own deck you can try theirs to eliminate a hardware failure on your deck.

Credit unions use the NCUA instead of FDIC. So if they don’t go after that as well there are still some options.

Closest to this I’ve worked was a convenience store which included a deli.

In that context the way I would have seen it was that he probably would have come in and bought them anyways, so the only difference to me would be sticking them in three bags vs one. No different than anyone else asking to cut their pizza a different way or whatever other minor out of the ordinary changes customers wanted.

If we were swamped with orders then yeah I wouldn’t be happy about it, but you get over it and move on that is part of working retail.

Is there anything that really makes their job shittier about this though? Than than dealing with three orders instead of one?

If anything with the focus these days on metrics around how fast they can serve customers these three simple orders probably made their metrics look better so they could slack off on the next few orders.

But yeah just says “I’m a cheapskate.”

North Dakota like many states has a renters refund for those with lower incomes which is designed to at least partially offset that. Limits look to be a bit low but every little bit helps.

I’ve got several full color Hue bulbs that are the most used lights in my house. I haven’t had a single failure in a decade.

I was more than a little annoyed when they decided to stop supporting my original controller for them though.

Gerrymandered districts are more in danger not less. Gerrymandering is about spreading out areas which are easy wins, and instead spreading those votes over multiple districts.

You gain more seats, but you make every race closer.

It might be the least effective especially for those not in swing states, but it certainly isn’t the least important.

And as far as “not a democracy” the NPVIC isn’t that many states away from effectively rendering the problems with the electoral college moot. Certainly a steep uphill battle though.

If voters actually turned out for primaries/elections there would be much better candidates. So your argument becomes “nobody else does it, and because of that the system is broken, and so I won’t do it either”.

It seems like people get caught up in the media hype on the presidential election and forget that some of the most important change needs to start from the bottom up, and a couple of. votes can make a huge difference in State levels, and congressional/senate elections. A president is worthless without a Congress/senate passing laws that actually matter.

Just look at what Minnesota has been able to with voter reform in the last year with their very narrow trifecta. I.e law went into effect this year that allows residents to sign up to automatically receive absentee ballots for every election/primary in their area. A minor improvement, but an important one. Guaranteed that there will be folks that wouldn’t bother to vote on non-presidential elections that will be now.

They also added a “right to be absent from work to vote” which gives Minnesotans the ability to vote without using any sort of vacation/leave time without losing pay. Full list of other rather import changes here

Things like that can snowball into a larger shift at the state level.

The state has no need for you to legitimize them. Even if the system is weighted against you every vote still has power, and the only thing that not voting accomplishes is sending a message that you are okay with the system as it is. There are plenty of politicians out there that want change to happen, and they can’t do it without enough votes behind them.

But those aren’t mutually exclusive things. Voting for the Dems doesn’t prevent you from doing those other things in the meantime.

If you only have two real choices that will affect the outcome and one of them is better than the other, voting for neither of them just makes things harder for those that would have made it slightly better. More compromises have to be made and that means the situation can’t improve.

I see constant posts about how Trump splitting their base is going to mean the end of the Republican party but that seems very short sighted. It is a simple matter of natural selection, and in a two party system only two parties will ever exist. It also inherently gravitates to very close races between those parties. Any split of the Republican party might cause a term or two of chaos, but it is just a matter of time before something fills the vacuum and balance is restored.

Each party would prefer to move further towards their end of the spectrum, but they are forced to move their values (or choose more centrist candidates) until they have enough of a majority to win.

Gerrymandering, the electoral college, what’s left of the judicial branch, apathetic voters, parasitic third parties, and wedge issues have allowed the Republicans to shift further right while maintaining their power. The only possible response to that from the Dems is to also shift right as well. If they didn’t the Republicans would just end up with trifectas or super majorities.

Trump was also able to shift racist/authoritarian/nationalist policies much further right by shifting his fiscal policies further left than what Republicans normally would do. His whole campaign was based on deficit spending (tax cuts without any real cost cutting, stimulus COVID spending, etc), public works (multi billion dollar worthless walls), and his focus on blue collar workers (not directly supporting unions but he pushed anti China + US manufacturing boosts).

Every vote for a third party is one less vote that the Republicans need to gain, which is a little more right that they can slide and maintain power, and since natural selection links the two parties it is also a little further right that the Democrats have to slide to maintain their power as well.

If you want to shift things left voting third-party won’t do it. Third parties have no power to make changes and never will in our current system.

Voting for the only party that has a chance of winning and is willing to make voting reforms to improve that system is the only hope of shifting the parties to the left where the actual political center of the country lies.

Voting for anyone else is illogical and won’t prevent this genocide. Protests, and organizations can maybe help in the short term to push the Democrats to change course but it also disenfranchises more voters to not show up, and pushes more to vote for third parties… And so the snowball tumbles down the hill to the right gaining momentum leaving us with frankly no good choice.

Assuming you mean hot plugged devices (thumb drives and external drives) KDE mounts them under /media

If you are expecting them to auto mount, KDE distros often don’t have that enabled by default. Though I think Kubuntu has that enabled by default now so maybe that has changed. Go to System Settings -> Hardware -> Removable Devices to adjust the automount settings defaults and per drive settings.

If you don’t have automount enabled you probably will need to browse to them in Dolphin once to get KDE to mount the drive first.