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Cake day: June 29th, 2023

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  • Yup, and honestly even according to that anti-art logic it was a strategic failure. Funny meme gifs were part of how the game gained notoriety, but you don’t maintain a game long term on meme status alone.

    Even if “haha funni physics glitches” were still the in thing - I think people got over them fast, like with any comedy style - the longevity of the game came from the deep mechanics and impressive missions people could do, and the community support.

    I actually think that sequels to breakout sandbox games are always doomed to fail. Like what if they tried to release Minecraft 2? It would be awful, and I think we all instinctively know it would be, which is kind of a self fullfulling prophecy.

    Minecraft doesn’t have a monopoly on the special sauce that makes their game good. It has a decade and a half of support and cultural recognition from a dedicated following. You can’t make that happen a second time. I don’t like what’s been done with the franchise commercially, but they figured out how to milk it without doing a direct sequel, which I think is part of why it’s still relevant.



  • Excrubulent@slrpnk.netto196@lemmy.blahaj.zonejoycon surgery rule
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    18 hours ago

    I followed this for the right joycon. If you buy the antenna from the links, the only difference between them is the wire length, which has nothing to do with signal strength. I tried both because they were so cheap, but the shorter 50mm one was much better because it’s long enough without too much excess:

    https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/7myhlj/joycon_antenna_upgrade_details_and_thoughts_after/

    Tap for reddit post in case you don't want to go there

    Hey, Everyone,

    Just wanted to share my Joy-Con experiences here in case it might help someone else…It’s more on the technical side, but the results have been phenomenal for me.

    The Joy-Cons I got with my Switch on launch day have been pretty good about being responsive and staying connected, though, not perfect, and can still be frustrating when playing them detached with Mario Kart (only when several feet away) due to some periodic unresponsiveness. Even so, I never bothered trying any of the fixes I’d seen with the original set as they felt good enough.

    Several months after launch, I got a second pair of Joy-Cons from Best Buy when they came back in stock, thinking that there was enough time to fix any “manufacturing defects” by now. However, this new pair definitely had the connection issues that I’d read so much about. They were super flaky, laggy, and disconnected more often than the original ones did in various tests. The left one especially, but even the right one was less responsive on these new ones.

    I tried the foam fix initially on the new left one (I had some conductive foam from other projects), and it did indeed help keep it connected, but the micro-stutters and input lag (most noticeable when playing Mario Kart) were still infuriating.

    So, I did some research and came across this: https://www.tfix.co.uk/project/nintendo-switch-joy-con-antenna-upgrade/

    Just Google Image search “joy-con antenna upgrade” for lots of good pictures to get a better idea of what to do.

    I decided I was going to try something similar.

    I ordered a bunch of these: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active%2F1461530050_ANTENNAS.xml

    But, in hindsight, I think I should have gotten these ones with the longer cable as that would have made placing them in the Joy-Con much easier: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active%2F1461530100_ANTENNAS.xml

    At any rate, they should be about $1.25 each at most electronic outlets.

    There might be antennas better-suited for the Joy-Cons out there, but these seemed like good ones to try, at least, and were readily available.

    And with those, I modded both the left and the right Joy-Cons.

    The right one already has the same port as the new antennas, so it was an easy swap there, and I was able to plug the new antenna right into the existing port on the right PCB and squeeze the new antenna back in the same area as the old one without affecting the shell closing.

    The left one, the infamous one, was trickier, of course. You’ve probably seen a few guides about people soldering a wire onto that antenna-related soldering point on the left one’s PCB, and that’s the same strategy I went for with using these new antennas.

    I first had to carefully cut and strip the end of the antenna wire to expose the wire without damaging it. I then tinned it and carefully soldered the new antenna’s exposed wire to the typical soldering point on the left PCB. I placed a small square of electrical tape on the new solder point and wire. I then tried to run and mount it in the same spot as the right’s antenna, which worked OK and, after some careful effort, was able to get it back together without affecting the shell.

    So, I then ended up with a modded left and right Joy-Con with what I hoped to be upgraded antennas.

    After using them for several months now, the difference has been amazing! The range itself is a bit better, but the real benefits come in the form of how consistent and responsive they BOTH are now. Every button press feels immediate with no input-lag or micro-stutters at all, ever, no matter how I hold them!

    It’s a shame Nintendo seems to be dancing around these issues and not just putting slightly better antennas in the new Joy-Cons, but at least there’s a way to improve them ourselves, which I will settle for as I love the Switch, haha.

    Anyhoo, I didn’t bother going into too much detail here as the details are well documented elsewhere, but just wanted to share my experiences in case there are people still out there frustrated with their Joy-Cons (even after the official “repairs”) and hesitant to try modding them…because it’s worth it! :)

    ***Updated links for posterity:

    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/146153-0050/molex

    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/146153-0100/molex?q=1461530100


    And that person says you can strip the wire and solder that antenna to the pad on the left joycon too, since it doesn’t have a port.

    I didn’t go that route, I just did this for the left one:

    https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2017/3/6/14834648/nintendo-switch-left-joy-con-connectivity-antenna-mod-fix-dont-try-this-at-home

    I figured since I was soldering anyway I’d do the simpler thing, plus something about just tacking on a basic wire was very alluring.

    That video doesn’t pay attention to the wire length, I think maybe the guy got lucky, but do pay attention to that. 2.4GHz wavelength is 12.49cm which is too long, so you need 1/2 or 1/4 that. The dipole ~6cm wire, soldered in the middle, is a good way to pick up that frequency.

    This page shows you how to calculate the antenna length and shows a basic diagram of what it looks like:

    https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/dipole

    Now, I calculated 6.25cm wavelength, but that and other pages show ~6cm, but apparently it depends on wire radius, so I would defer to their knowledge. If you get close enough, it still works from my experience.

    Obviously bear in mind this is a mod and you run the risk of damaging something. Personally I didn’t destroy a joycon with the mods, I did it by not realising I had to pull the battery connector up and away from the board, which could happen with any repair. But my kids enjoyed picking out a new colour for the replacement, so that was fun.



  • Now that you’ve done it once, I can recommend the gulikit hall effect joystick kit, which is a drop in replacement. I’ve done it for my kids’ joycons and it shouldn’t ever need fixing.

    I also installed a replacement antenna for one of them, you can buy a square one that fits where the original goes. And for the other side where the antenna is etched into the board, there’s a handy pad where you can solder on a wire. I used a 6.25cm long wire, stripped and soldered at the middle, this makes a dipole antenna tuned for 2.4GHz, and just tucked it inside the case.

    Since doing this the signal never drops out. It used to be nearly useless for sitting on the couch, now it’s a solid connection.







  • If you like factory designing games, I can recommend anything by Zachtronics.

    They’re all esoteric programming/automation type puzzle games, and they all have their own unique solitaire games built-in for whenever you get tired of the main game.

    My personal favourites are SpaceChem - scifi molecule factories - and Opus Magnum - steampunk alchemical molecule factories. Something about the molecules just works for me, don’t know why. Plus the Opus Magnum solitaire game is really unique and fun, and it has a user-made level feature, so you can keep playing.

    Last Call BBS is a collection of minigames they made as their final release before shutting up shop, so it’s a lot more casual than the others, but a lot of fun.


  • Efficiency doesn’t matter if you’re shipping material for production halfway round the world and shipping those products halfway back just because rich people wanted to outsource to cheap labour, and overproduce cheap crap that falls apart way too fast so they can sell us the same cheap crap again a couple years later. It’s mostly waste. Some shipping is necessary, but I’d say a vast majority we could do without.

    Like I don’t believe for a second that these tarrifs will actually fix this problem because they’re just a big tantrum with zero strategy involved, but in an ideal world we would make a lot more locally and spend a lot less energy sending things all over the planet to make a handful of shareholders slightly higher margins.




  • Excrubulent@slrpnk.netto196@lemmy.blahaj.zonedead plants rule
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    13 days ago

    Big recommend on that video and Anark’s whole channel.

    This is a short clip he put out recently that makes a really good case for building the new world by fixing today’s problems, which makes life better now, which is something people seem to miss.

    Like we’re not just rolling the dice that what we do now might pay off for future generations. We’re not just “planting trees in whose shade we will never sit”, we are planting seeds we can reap soon, because we need to eat, so we’re solving that problem.

    And satisfyingly, this brings us full-circle to addressing the point of the original post.



  • Viewed from above the north pole, the planet’s rotation, orbit and the ISS’s orbit are all moving in a counterclockwise direction. The ISS’s orbit is inclined ~51° from the Earth’s rotation, and the Earth’s rotation is tilted ~23° from its orbital plane.

    I think that means that Earth & the ISS never have their orbits perfectly aligned, but for our purposes that doesn’t matter. All we need is for one moment in time, for the ISS’s vector to line up with the Earth’s, and we should get very close to that at two times of the year, where the ISS’s northernmost or southernmost parts of its orbit fall on the farthest point of its orbit away from the Sun. This should be true regardless of Earth’s tilt at that moment.

    ( edit: on reflection, not quite true, you need the ISS’s highest or lowest point relative to the plane of Earth’s orbit, but it will still happen twice per year )

    At those moments, the ISS is travelling with the direction of the planet, very close to parallel, and its speed relative to the Sun should approach ~134,600 km/h, unless you did the math wrong, I didn’t check that.

    In this same orbit the ISS should also reach its slowest point, as the opposite side of its orbit should be aligned against Earth’s orbit.

    But also, in the premise of this idea is the admission that the bicycle is “stationary”, because its speed in relation to its immediate environment is what matters, and we all know it.